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Due to the width of this candle, it needs to be burned for a minimum of 2 hours each time it’s lit.

All candles, pure beeswax or toxic, need to be burned until the pool of wax reaches the outside edge! It’s an immutable law of physics. This is a requirement every(ish) time you light your candle.

As beeswax is extremely forgiving, if you blow them out sooner on occasion the candle should be able to play catch up.

There is no need with a beeswax candle to put it out once it reaches the outside edge, it should just continue to burn beautifully, without dripping, emitting a light honey aroma and a gorgeous warm ambience.

A tealight candle should be burned in one sitting.

We know that with the price of beeswax candles being more than their toxic cousins, many of our customers would prefer to burn tealights over a couple of evenings, so… here’s the rub… (you may need a coffee)!

A tealight candle has a wick that is held up by a metal ‘sustainer’. That sustainer has a 3mm neck holding the wick upright.

If you burn your tealight candle down so that there is say 4 – 5mm of wax remaining in the bottom of the cup, that means there is only 1 – 2mm of unburnt wick sticking out the top of the metal sustainer neck. That is not enough wick to burn out to the edge and consume all of the beeswax remaining in the cup.

So, if you want to burn your tealights over multiple sessions please ensure there is a MINIMUM of 6mm of beeswax in the bottom of the tealight cup (that’s around ½ the height of the 4-5hour tealight cup and just over 1/3 of the height of the 8-9hour tealight cup).

If you play your cards right, this should mean that you can get a couple of nights out of a 4 – 5 hour tealight and 3 evenings out of an 8 – 9 hour tealight. BOOM!

1. Putting a candle into a glass vessel multiplies the light emitted by the candle many times over. 
   
   Curved glass (like a fishbowl) will achieve a better result than straight sided glass because the flame is reflected from many angles.  Any glass is better than no glass!
   
   
2. Always allow your candle to burn to the outside edge.  As some sage physicist said at some stage in the past “if you don’t allow your candle to burn out to the edge, it won’t burn out to the edge.”
   
   
3. When putting out a pillar candle, use the end of any poker type object (we use the bottom of a pen) to dunk the wick into the molten wax pool and then ensure you lift it out again and re-centre the wick.  This stops the wick from smoking (and keeps the wick strong).
   
   Before you relight a pillar candle, always trim the wick to 7mm or so (a little shorter than a centimeter)… if you dipped your wick to put the candle out, it will be coated with wax that has now gone cold so you should be able to trim the wick with your fingertips without getting soot on them!

1. We recommend always burning a candle on a fire safe and heat proof surface. Ceramic, tile, mirror plate, glass, marble… should all be heat proof (unless they have a special finish on them in which case check first). Never burn a candle directly on to a timber surface.
2. Think about where your candle flame is going to be when you light the candle and ensure there is nothing that can come into contact with the flame (loose paper, curtains or anything else flammable).
3. Think about candle safety when you’re setting a dinner table… leave enough room between the candles to allow your guests to pass dishes and drinks without burning themselves or knocking the candles over.
4. Every child is different, so it is up to you whether it is appropriate to teach your child about fire or not and at what age. If you’re worried about fire safety around kids, think about putting the candles in a holder with a wide flat base (like a vase or fishbowl) and either keeping them out of reach, or, better still, educating the kids not to touch them while they’re burning.
   
   We have had hundreds of customers over the years who have told us that they have taught their kids that when the candles are lit in the evening it is ‘quiet time’… dinner, bath & bed.

Every Queen B candle is made with 100% pure Australian beeswax plus a pure cotton wick. Nothing else. No fillers. No fragrances. No soy, palm or paraffin wax… just the purest beeswax in the world. There are many benefits of this approach:

1. our candles all burn with an golden aura-ed flame that is larger than their toxic cousins (because of the high melting point of the wax we can use a larger wick) throwing more light;
2. they burn significantly longer than any non-beeswax candles of a similar size;
3. they purify the air via ionisation and have significant health benefits especially for those of us suffering from respiratory problems like asthma;
4. using them is good for your health, good for Australian beekeepers, good for the regional communities they live in, good for farmers who rely on bees for pollination, good for national parks and state forests, good for the environment, good for artisan skills, good for Australian jobs and because of all of that, good for you!!

Due to the width of this candle, it needs to be burned for a minimum of 2 hours each time it’s lit.

All candles, pure beeswax or toxic, need to be burned until the pool of wax reaches the outside edge! It’s an immutable law of physics. This is a requirement every(ish) time you light your candle.

As beeswax is extremely forgiving, if you blow them out sooner on occasion the candle should be able to play catch up.

There is no need with a beeswax candle to put it out once it reaches the outside edge, it should just continue to burn beautifully, without dripping, emitting a light honey aroma and a gorgeous warm ambience.

A tealight candle should be burned in one sitting.

We know that with the price of beeswax candles being more than their toxic cousins, many of our customers would prefer to burn tealights over a couple of evenings, so… here’s the rub… (you may need a coffee)!

A tealight candle has a wick that is held up by a metal ‘sustainer’. That sustainer has a 3mm neck holding the wick upright.

If you burn your tealight candle down so that there is say 4 – 5mm of wax remaining in the bottom of the cup, that means there is only 1 – 2mm of unburnt wick sticking out the top of the metal sustainer neck. That is not enough wick to burn out to the edge and consume all of the beeswax remaining in the cup.

So, if you want to burn your tealights over multiple sessions please ensure there is a MINIMUM of 6mm of beeswax in the bottom of the tealight cup (that’s around ½ the height of the 4-5hour tealight cup and just over 1/3 of the height of the 8-9hour tealight cup).

If you play your cards right, this should mean that you can get a couple of nights out of a 4 – 5 hour tealight and 3 evenings out of an 8 – 9 hour tealight. BOOM!

1. Putting a candle into a glass vessel multiplies the light emitted by the candle many times over. 
   
   Curved glass (like a fishbowl) will achieve a better result than straight sided glass because the flame is reflected from many angles.  Any glass is better than no glass!
   
   
2. Always allow your candle to burn to the outside edge.  As some sage physicist said at some stage in the past “if you don’t allow your candle to burn out to the edge, it won’t burn out to the edge.”
   
   
3. When putting out a pillar candle, use the end of any poker type object (we use the bottom of a pen) to dunk the wick into the molten wax pool and then ensure you lift it out again and re-centre the wick.  This stops the wick from smoking (and keeps the wick strong).
   
   Before you relight a pillar candle, always trim the wick to 7mm or so (a little shorter than a centimeter)… if you dipped your wick to put the candle out, it will be coated with wax that has now gone cold so you should be able to trim the wick with your fingertips without getting soot on them!

1. We recommend always burning a candle on a fire safe and heat proof surface. Ceramic, tile, mirror plate, glass, marble… should all be heat proof (unless they have a special finish on them in which case check first). Never burn a candle directly on to a timber surface.
2. Think about where your candle flame is going to be when you light the candle and ensure there is nothing that can come into contact with the flame (loose paper, curtains or anything else flammable).
3. Think about candle safety when you’re setting a dinner table… leave enough room between the candles to allow your guests to pass dishes and drinks without burning themselves or knocking the candles over.
4. Every child is different, so it is up to you whether it is appropriate to teach your child about fire or not and at what age. If you’re worried about fire safety around kids, think about putting the candles in a holder with a wide flat base (like a vase or fishbowl) and either keeping them out of reach, or, better still, educating the kids not to touch them while they’re burning.
   
   We have had hundreds of customers over the years who have told us that they have taught their kids that when the candles are lit in the evening it is ‘quiet time’… dinner, bath & bed.

Every Queen B candle is made with 100% pure Australian beeswax plus a pure cotton wick. Nothing else. No fillers. No fragrances. No soy, palm or paraffin wax… just the purest beeswax in the world. There are many benefits of this approach:

1. our candles all burn with an golden aura-ed flame that is larger than their toxic cousins (because of the high melting point of the wax we can use a larger wick) throwing more light;
2. they burn significantly longer than any non-beeswax candles of a similar size;
3. they purify the air via ionisation and have significant health benefits especially for those of us suffering from respiratory problems like asthma;
4. using them is good for your health, good for Australian beekeepers, good for the regional communities they live in, good for farmers who rely on bees for pollination, good for national parks and state forests, good for the environment, good for artisan skills, good for Australian jobs and because of all of that, good for you!!